Reeder Custom Guns - Paint the cases to let us know which ones are

what primer pocket. Spent the day cleaning a bucket of brass. Got to the ACPs and forgot they did this. I guess I’ve been lucky but this batch was more than I’ve seen at one time in a while.
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Oh well, I’ve got a good pile of SP primer pocket starter brass for the 44 Boggs Special.
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cases, can you use a small magnum pistol primer or are they too hot?

Cut the powder charge. I find it easier just to discard these SP cases.

to be bothered with the small primer cases. They go in the recycle bin.

They are handy to have in a corner if you EVER just happened to run out of LP or LR primers to use. That would be a kick wouldn't it?!

He is a Firearms Trainer with a Police Dept. and shoots a lot. He does not have time to pick up brass. The batch I sent to him was almost 500 pieces.

say a bullet of 230 grains, powder charge of 5 grains of Hodgdon Universal powder and a large pistol primer, that is a safe load. Somewhere between 770 and 800 fps in my full sized 1911. Now, if I had a small pistol primer pocket bucket of brass and that is all I could get, I have no idea of where I should safely back off to in order to use SPM primers assuming that was all I had. That is what I really should have asked. I have always used the recipes in my reloading manual or called the powder manufacturer to get their minimum starting and maximum loads. BTW, I do not have any small primer pocket 45 acp brass. This is merely a curiosity thing.

that converted small primer pockets into large ones. It should be real easy. Maybe again in October... I actually wanted to do my own .357 to Large. Did you know .40 S&W is small and 10mm is large? Not that it makes a lot of difference that I can tell.

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I have experience with 2400, and while not totally necessary, it will burn cleaner with a Magnum Small pistol Primers. In SOME guns I have found combinations where I thought I found velocity increases of near 10% due to the better ignition of Magnum primers. But it was not using 2400.

It would be interesting to find some method of determining "power" of respective primers in some control. Variables are so great with the actual ignition characteristics of different caliber cases and propellant specifics. It begs the question "does it really make any notable difference"?

contact Mic McPherson. He has done more work with every brand and type of primer than anyone else I know.

I have a ton of magnum small pistol primer. I'd like to start loading the 10mm auto.

It is an incredible gun though, a tiger by the tail. Just a little thick to suit me. As small of a 10mm as I know, I think it holds 11-12 rounds too.

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I wish someone made 10mm auto for a small primer

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but how do you long seat a 40 SW to fit a 10mm Ruger 1911?

and overall length in 10mm it seems. I have no experience with the Ruger and lots of my AMT and Custom 1911 experience has been fail to feed (cast reloads). I have been successful with a more rounded ojive profile. I finally mimicked some factory ammo that shot well. Used that bullet and used a factory round to set up my seating depth.

It finally worked for me. I'm still struggling with some other heavier bullets. The 170 gr. Lyman works fine and my 200 gr. does too. The Glock 20 will eat anything long short, blunt, rounded, cast, jacketed, whatever. It headspaces off the extractor fine. The 1911 has been a bit of a challenge for me personally. But as I said, the Ruger may be another cup of tea. It is more of a tuned machine rather than a mass produced tool.

Doug has a 1911 that literally ate each piece of 10mm brass it fired. I still don't know how it was doing it.

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