Loving your gun from the inside out.

WB
[subject]
Monday, September 28, 2020, 20:14 (2149 days ago)

I’ve been enjoying learning the FN HP 9mm pistole. Only passingly a John Browning design, honestly. It feels fantastic in the hand, just the right amount of heft, great pointing. The safety is horrible, all mushy with no telling detent, no feel at all. One issue I have is how to carry it loaded. The 1911 cocked and locked seems most reasonable, but that mushy safety does not instill much confidence. Hammer down is ok and safe, being a rebound type firing pin. But one must then thumb back the hammer to shoot.

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One fascinating design element is the overhead “teeter-totter” style sear bar that interfaces the trigger pin and sear pad to trip and drop the hammer. The hammer spring is quite unique itself but not germane to the topic. It can create its own issues.

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My gun was having mis-fires. The hammer was stopping at the safety notch, not dropping completely. It was intermittent and very disturbing. It manifested itself only after I cleaned the gun. What could I have done?! All I did was dig grime out of it. Everything checked out, over and over again. I was drawn to the sear bar and the two points that worked with it. Pulling the trigger pushes the trigger pin up (I long ago removed the magazine dis-connect parts), that action pushes the sear bar up on one end, pivoting down on the other, the sear pad contact pushes the sear down to release the hammer. Seemingly debris could get under the bar and make it not move as it should. Plausible since it’s in a groove on the underside of the slide. I’d sure not want to over lube it and invite grime. I finally decided to true the surfaces of the trigger lifter and sear pad. I noted the surfaces did indeed have pitting and were uneven. The bar itself is very crude looking and rife with tool marks. All this needs to be taken apart and polished. The roll pin in the slide seems to hold it in place. No doubt a custom would have had all these details attended to. My truing and polishing of the two interfacing pads were rewarded with a complete end to the hammer/sear malfunction. I found it. More work to be done but it’s satisfying to identify an issue and understand the inner workings much more intimately. It endures the gun much more to me.

The sear pad surface under magnification. Sanded smoother but still not flat. It may require some careful light stoning to restore. There is a pit in the center. Perhaps I removed all the grime out of it causing a poor interface? It's now better but not totally right.
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The trigger bar/pin. Still not quite perfect.
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You can see where the trigger pin has been pushing on the sear bar. A polish would only help.
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The sear bar contact point, only under magnification, I can see it's a terrible inconsistent surface. This will bug me until I can remedy. But at least it works.
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I’m with you WB! Got my 1st AR and learning.

Larryh
[subject]
Monday, September 28, 2020, 20:25 (2149 days ago) @ WB

I spent 21 years in the Navy and never handled an M16! Figured it was time to start. Learning a lot and having fun doing it! Did find out that if I want to hit what I’m shooting at, I have to do it with my M1A!!! 20 rds with my M1A on a paper plate and had a nice colander, 20 with the AR and had a plate to eat the drained noodles on! 100 yards and open sights......

I've had two others, once at a gun show

WB
[subject]
Monday, September 28, 2020, 20:52 (2149 days ago) @ Larryh

I traded for a "BDA", sort of a Hi-Power but with a SA/DA mode you could switch with a coin. I owned it for maybe an hour then made $100 profit and went on. Who would pass on that? Then later I had a FEG Hungarian clone that was manufactured for Sadam Hussen's Royal Guard whom thought they were getting real Belgium HPs. I figure he pocketed the difference. It had a ring hammer and the older style sights.

I kept this genuine FN HP that has the Israel Civil Defense "Police" division stamp on the trigger guard. A small star in a circle, not a Star of David. It's a MKII version with ambidextrous safety and better dovetail sights. Build date is in the mid 1980's, some 35 years ago. I did a trigger/action tune and stoned a bevel on the sear. It took some work to do it right but I adjusted the sear spring to provide about a 4-5 lb. super crisp trigger action. No dreaded hammer fall either. I learned a lot in the process.

BTW, I've never had an AR anything that wouldn't do 2 MOA

WB
[subject]
Tuesday, September 29, 2020, 07:33 (2148 days ago) @ Larryh

Roman has a 10.5" pistol that shoots 1.5 MOA or less all day long. My HBAR shoots 1 MOA with iron sights! I've never shot a M1A that would do that with just any old ball ammo.

Surely the barrel is on snug. The gas tube runs through the "sprocket" nut that holds the barrel on. It would be tough to get it one "tooth" too loose, but I guess it could happen. It can't loosen by itself as that tube holds it in place. I had a Steyr .376 Scout that had a like nut, or like Savage, that went loose and started shooting a bit wild. Just something to check. Typically AR's are dead nuts accurate and easy to shoot.

Guess I should clarify. Didn’t have tool with me to adjust

Larryh
[subject]
Tuesday, September 29, 2020, 13:43 (2148 days ago) @ WB

the front sight. I’m sure it will do paper plate at 100. Going to take it out again Friday.

Yeah that can be a pain. they have a four and five prong

WB
[subject]
Tuesday, September 29, 2020, 16:43 (2148 days ago) @ Larryh

the hot ticket is a dual ended tool with both. You can use a pointy FMJ bullet tip but it takes a bit of finesse. Plus you got to remember to go backward from what you want the bullet to go.

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