Reeder Custom Guns - More on the Mosin

I loaded 17 rounds for the Mosin using pulled military bullets. They measure right close to .315" .....
[image]

On the range at 50 yards, the first shot from a cold barrel went into the black. The next shot was just above it. 3rd shot went higher. From there they started going on a walkabout.

[image]

That was pretty much the day. Groups were in 3 1/2" to 5" with the rest of the ammo I had loaded.

I can see the gun prefers the larger diameter bullets. Not sure why it starts walking the shots as it heats up. Could be my cutting the bayonet crap off. Could be the muzzle is worn. Could be the barrel is touching the stock someplace. Could be the loose nut that is pulling the trigger.

I don't discount my old eyes. The open sights are tough for me at times. Today the light was good and I could see the sights fairly clearly most times.

I may knock off the front barrel band with the sight on it and cut off that smaller diameter portion of the barrel. Then I will have to remount a front sight.

Gonna start by checking the stock.

Post reply

The rifling in that gun really sounds shallow. Probably been shot a lot.

I've seen a few military rifles and varmint rifles alike that have been shot until the metallurgy in the barrel is damaged. Some string vertical and some horizontal. But, the hotter they get, the worse the stringing.

I still go back to my earlier post. I load pistol bullets over Unique and see how they group. It takes a lot of rounds before the barrel heats up.

Post reply

it vibrates as the bullet travels down the bore. If the stock bolts are not tightened in a manner where the action is not stressed, or torqued in some manner it can change harmonics as it heats up. It starts out fine but then can go a bit off.

Glass bedding done properly can minimize this change IF it can hold the action where it is not stressed and vibrates in the same manner, shot to shot, hot or cold.

But there are so many variables at play you have to systematically eliminate issues by process of elimination. Choosing the best guesses first.

I have a project I'm working on myself. A "Raptor" brand .270 bolt rifle. The front action screw pulled through the stock. I had to "cold tack" the bushing I made with JB Weld. The action screw hole is off center so I have to "set" this in place then tomorrow glass bed the lug where it won't be moving or flex the action. I'm doing this in a manner where it drops in only one way and no stresses. A friend gave me this gun and if I can get it to shoot under 2" at 100 for a loaner or truck gun what fun! Raptor design was bought by Mossberg and is now their bolt gun line.

[image]

I had to re-drill the hole in this bushing and cut it to fit.
[image]

Tomorrow I'll fill this area with glass compound.
[image]

This is a multiple session job. Then on to feeding issues with basically a faux blind magazine. It's one of the worst stocks I've seen.
[image]

Post reply

someone asked "What is the proper way to remove a bayonet?"

The answer was, "Put your foot on the foe's chest, twist and pull. It will come right out."

Post reply

He bayoneted a man in the forehead. He said there was very little resistance when driving it in but it wouldn't pull back out. He fired a round to get it free.

Post reply

along with messing with a few other things. It's the journey of discovery that makes it fun.

Post reply

Glass bed the lug area well to make sure it was not heating up and moving around. Your shooting looks a lot like that. I know some of those .314 cast 180/200's would do well. Get you some .32-20 120's and plink some. I bet that would work too.

Post reply

- No text -

Post reply

More on the Mosin

Couple things from a small minded experimenter...

All true. Firing a rifle is harmonic, that is

Questions about removing the Mosin M44 bayonet ..

Lewis Millett improvised a way to remove his bayonet

All good suggestions Huey. I will give it a try ..

I'd slather that pig with Accra-Glass Gel.

It's the first shot that's usually the most important