Reeder Custom Guns - Keeping a C & B loaded for extended peroids.

As I was taught, by 1970's magazines, you ALWAYS pop a cap or two on the nipple before loading a ML. It blows out accumulated oil, clears the needle side passage, and dries out the chamber.

But the caps are corrosive a bit too. Is this still a sound practice for keeping it fully loaded for a while? Or will the nipples get all rusty? I hate rusty nipples. What did they do back in the old days? A sixgun was likely kept loaded for some time.

Last time I hunted with a C & B I forwent my normal practice, I did not want to alarm or wake the other hunters by popping caps before loading. I paid the price with a couple of misfires too!

Remove them from the cylinder and wash with dishwashing detergent and water. Use a piece of wire to clear the holes. Dry your nipples thoroughly..don’t tighten your nipples more than snug

The barrels of front loaders and when they sit for a good while all that lube runs down to collect at the nipple. Those revolver nipples seem to tighten on their own anyway.

I have a desire for a small bore compact C&B, maybe a .36 or a .31. Just for fun. I may get into collecting them again. They are just a pleasure to own. Shooting them is more of a process that you enjoy and don't take for granted.

I see they are making a chopped 1860 Army with a birdshead grip much like the custom Gary worked over for me. THAT would be one to get and collect! None are bad high compared to modern autos.

firstly, I use a beeswax/vaseline/mineral oil mix for lube and preservation, and I do use a pipe cleanern to apply to blued nipples (not stainless) but also go right back and wipe them out with a clean pipe cleaner, and never have found it neccessary to pop caps. Popping caps can leave trash in nipples and caused me more problems than ever did just making sure nipple was clear with a pipe cleaner.

whether on blued plain steel or stainless steel nipples, and this over years. The copper might corrode in contact with steel over time and with moisture, where caps can be replaced. Biggest thing is to make sure chamber mouths and nipples sealed to prevent powder from absorbing moisture and losing consistancy or even ability to light. It is non-corrosive until burned, but if it gets moist, it will rust chamber interiors simply from being a sponge.

Much of any of the above will vary tremendously depending on your own local climate/humidity. Dry interior states totally different than humid coastal climes.

I HAVE SEEN TWO REPORTS ON YOU TUBE. ONE FIRED AFTER THREE YEARS; ANOTHER DIDN'T AFTER A COUPLE MONTHS. I CAN'T SEE A PROBLEM IF ONE STARTS WITH A CLEAN SIXGUN.

shot all 12 shots out of both of his cap & ball revolvers every evening. Then each six gun was cleaned and reloaded for the next days adventures. A person would probably get pretty effective with your personal defense weapon by shooting some every day.

I wonder how much ambient humidity had to do with it?

If you live in a damp climate would there be less reliability?

I'm thinking of cleaning the cylinder with acetone and then load it. Put on your caps and then a thin smear of a beeswax based lube to seal it in.

into the heat and it literally drips with condensation. That obviously can make a difference.

Leaving such rig loaded in your vehicle also poses issues. Using air-conditioning drys the moisture from the air and all is good. But overnight in the cool or in the heat of the day when inside your parked car it gets 120 deg. and humidity is 80%+, THEN you cool it to 68 deg. for a little drive, then stop again. It sure taxes the ability of things to adapt.

years, I have moved more and more to stainless, tiring of guns rusting in sweaty hand at range or against sweaty body, and knives rusting in the middle of a job. Most folk do not realize conditions inside a vehicle as for humidity are exactly the same as outside, unless a dehumidifying AC/heater is running.

for 3 years ...

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If you are having rust trouble on high carbon steel knives in your climate try a hot cider apple "blue" on the blades. It works for me well in Georgia where the humidity is high enough to cause your skin to rust in the summer. A light coating of lard or gun grease and you are set for quite a while. It also stops blood staining. I like the look and you can retreat as needed. If you don't like it you can remove it very easily. Let me know if you need to know how to do it.

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up, how about passing along your vinegar douche for us.

Very easy. Get a glass container long enough to submerge the blade in apple cider vinegar, I use a small woodworking squeeze type clamp to hold the knife upright and off the bottom. Bring the vinegar to a boil and pour into container. It will fizz as the metal reacts. When it stops reacting, take it out. If you want it darker repeat the process. I did this one three times.

done such "forced patina" on several knives, using everything from a jar of mustard to ketchup to sticking in a large potato/tomato, as well as vinegar and several others too lazy to recall. It is an etch and surface oxidizer/corrosion all in its own right. Personally, it seems to me to help inhibit corrosion mainly by the roughness and oxide holding preservative better than the smooth steel, rather as thin parkerize, while also having the same downside of greatly increasing drag in cutting. My attempts at surface smoothing also reduced the ability to protect.

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