Reeder Custom Guns - 1911 help!

I have never owned a 1911. So I picked up a Springfield Garrison in 45acp. I bought a 460 Rowland kit for it in which I installed. Went to range to test it. I usually reload but decided to try some buffalo bore ammo. Shot some and it function fine. So I decided to put low profile adjustable sight on.The factory novak was extremely tight but I got it off. Put new sight on and went to range. The gun fires but leaves spent case in chamber. I can extract cases working the slide by hand. But it doesn't when fired. ANY help is appreciated.

Cocked, or still down?

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I have seen “factory” ammo loaded so hot the primers flow back into the firing pin hole! My guess is either the extractor has a problem or the round is so hot it’s sticking in the chamber and the exterior can’t pull it until the round cools a tad longer than it takes the slide to cycle. What pound recoil spring are you using? And look at the primers on your fired case’s. See if they are flat or have a spur from flowing backwards. Need to see a dent to be sane in my book.

I tried a 26lbs spring same thing. I am wondering about the extractor.

Marks on the fired case?

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Under recoil. And it has a drag mark where it skidded over the rim. I would guess it is not sitting deep enough. You should get one of Gary’s 1911
Magnum packs!
https://www.reedercustomguns.com/information/1911%20parts%202-22-22.jpg

What is the flat spring for?

It insures the reliable movement of the trigger, sear, disconnector, and the hammer.

It great the way it is!
I watched a few tutorials on youtube about testing the extractor and tweeking it. I tried so now off to try it.

Thank you so much for you help!

I've shot some of the Rowland stuff and that does not cause too much alarm, the ammo looks warm but not the classic primer flattening BB stuff. Some of it is HOT! How the gun is set up is very important. Using a "kit" was a good idea, parts should be well engineered.

But that old gun is not designed for that rough treatment. The swinging link has lots more moving parts than some late autos. Its a machine, things are in time. I experimented with a G21 Glock using custom throating, chambered muzzle brake, hefty springs. It no doubt greatly accelerates wear, but the round is impressive if it will feed it. The Glock seems more tolerant than the 1911. I've done very naughty things with the G21 platform in .45 and 10mm cal.

And run it as a 45 super or 40 Super. They are just so chunky to my hand, may have to find a sf model.

youtube videos. That is a good way to ruin your gun. Talk to a real gunsmith not those "experts" on youtube.

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extremely hot loads. A 230 grain ball round at around 850 to 900 fps or a 200 grain FMJ at 950 to 1000 fps is perfect for self defense. It does the job right without stressing the gun itself and in the long run does not do damage to the gun.

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Why in the world if this is your first 1911 are you jumping right to a 460 Rowland Kit and Using Buffalo Bore Ammo?? Start with regular factory level loads in the original gun and work your way up.

Just the anemic 1911.I have had several Lar Grizzlies and five different desert eagles. Like an idiot I got rid of the Lars.

To come from the mind of mere mortal man is anemic?

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going with the Rowland and Buffalo Bore and the wrong road to take.

John
This article helped convince me i would like to try the 460 rowland. The ballistics you listed in the article and comment it is basically a 4 inch 44mg. Just what I am looking for in an alaskan bush carry gun. But, also a fun gun to shoot when 45acp barrel is installed. After years of big bores hammering my hands I am ready for milder recoil. The standard 45acp as you point out leaves one wanting for a more powerful hunting handgun. But I would like to shoot hogs with. Again as you point out the lars grizzly and desert eagles are to bulky. So i get a 1911 and a 460 kit seeing no need to reinvent the wheel. Thats why I jumped to the 460 rowland.

I have been shooting the .460 Rowland for years and primarily reload for it. If your cases are staying in your barrel and not extracting I would believe that the slide is coming back with more force than the extractor you have can handle and it loses its grip on the rim of the case. I haven't had this happen personally on a .460 Rowland 1911, but it did happen to a .45 ACP RIA I had. No kidding, my gunsmith bent it forward just a little bit and the problem disappeared. I'm wondering if what happened was that the first few rounds didn't stress the extractor too much but then it lost it's grip. Let us know how the extractor works out if you swap it out.

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