Question for bullet casters

MTM
[subject]
Sunday, January 29, 2017, 06:37 (2664 days ago)

If I cast some .510, 350 grain bullets of melted clip on wheel weights, water quenched then gas checked, how do you think they would perform in a .510GNR at about 1050 FPS? should that be hard enough to keep from leading at moderate speed?

No real need to water quinch them. The temper goes away

WB
[subject]
Sunday, January 29, 2017, 07:07 (2664 days ago) @ MTM

with time too. I'm told that in about 30 days the hardness goes away enough to measure the change. But likely it would have little effect on the shooting. My ignorance about it has been bliss many years. Too hard bullets, or undersized, will lead worse than soft, sometimes!

Your wheelweight alloy would benefit greatly with just an ounce or two of tin and/or linotype. The lead will flow into the mould much better and the alloy malleability will be enhanced.

However I personally have shot bunches of plain wheelweights, air cooled, to 1400+ fps and plain bases. Slower powder is needed above 1200 fps. You can sometimes get leading with maybe Bullseye at 900 fps but 4227 at 1300 is fine. Depends on varied factors. The .510 has a huge surface area to push upon and spread out pressure, so it's relatively low at that speed. The propelling dynamics should be moderate with the 4227 that is recommended.

I am no expert by any measure. But I find casting/shooting is a very forgiving pastime. Often overthought.

Water Quenching

Alcorn
[subject]
Sunday, January 29, 2017, 08:47 (2664 days ago) @ WB

Not necessary to water quench at that low a velocity. If you water quench and don't load and shoot, put in the freeze. It will stop the softening. Check out the Lyman cast bullet handbook. It will tell you to add tin to wheel weights for better cast ability. It is called Lyman #2 alloy. I cast everything from #2 alloy.

You would be putting too much effort into them

Jim Taylor
[subject]
Sunday, January 29, 2017, 07:12 (2664 days ago) @ MTM

and getting pretty much nothing back.

As WB said, over time the little gain goes away. And those kind of wheelweights ... especially gas checked .. can be driven a lot faster with no problems when you have good lube.

This will be my first try at casting

MTM
[subject]
Sunday, January 29, 2017, 10:25 (2664 days ago) @ MTM

So I'll start with about 50 practice loads, gas checked and lubed. I do not have any Linotype or tin/ anatomy additives to add to this batch, but from what I have heard from a friend that casts, also here, as long as they are moving slow, sized and lubed properly, and gas checked, they should work just fine for practice loads.

first off, don't listen to that friend anymore.. If

Gary Reeder
[subject]
Sunday, January 29, 2017, 13:44 (2664 days ago) @ MTM

you put a gas check them you can run them to 1400 fps if you like with very little or no leading. That is what gas checks are for. Forget the water quenching unless you enjoy making a mess in the floor. Waving a magic wand over the freshly cast bullets will do just as much good. Wheelweights are fine. if you really want to be a whiz kid go to e-bay and find 10 lbs of linotype, usually about $1 a lb and get thet. it is all over e-bay's sporting goods section. Good stuff and a piece a bit bigger than a marble will do for a 20 lb lead pot. So 10 lbs will last you a long time. Forget all the special formulas and miracle lubes and hocus pocus bullshit. Just cast them, let them sit overnight, then size, and gas check them and go have fun.

Casting

MTM
[subject]
Sunday, January 29, 2017, 15:07 (2664 days ago) @ Gary Reeder

[image]
So I melted and cleaned about 10lbs of lead. Using both sets of molds, I made almost 200 bullets. I wanted to test the hardness, or if they were brittle, so I put them on an anvil vise, and gave them two hard hits with a 3lb sledge. The nose flattened nicely, no chipping or cracking, you could just about reload them. I think they look good. I'll play with sizing etc during the week, but it's easier than I expected so far.

Hey Michael, looks like you on well on your way.

Mark Conner
[subject]
Sunday, January 29, 2017, 16:09 (2664 days ago) @ MTM

It looks like on both bullets that your alloy and or your mould is not yet hot enough. (the rounded edges) Notice on the post above yours how nice and sharp the edges are on Jim Taylor's bullets, that's what you want. Especially on the base the most important part of the bullet. Don't count on a gas check to square up an uneven base.

Also I see no crimp groove on either of those bullets so to avoid bullet jump you may have to seat them just over the front driving band and put a very slight crimp over that. If you do that don't forget that your case capacity gets smaller so you may have to adjust your powder volume.

If you did water drop those you may want to check, lube, and size them right away. They will get hard in the next 24 hours and may not want to go through your sizer very easily.

But hey looking good, it just takes a bit to figure out what your mould likes.

Michael, pay attention to what Mark Conner says. he is the

Gary Reeder
[subject]
Sunday, January 29, 2017, 21:17 (2663 days ago) @ Mark Conner

cast bullet guru. Pay no attention to the rest of us as we are rank beginners compared to mark.

Casting in very cold weather

MTM
[subject]
Monday, January 30, 2017, 07:14 (2663 days ago) @ Gary Reeder

So I did not water quench. I poured the first few molds and let the bullets heat up the blocks before I kept any of the bullets. They cooled off quickly as I dropped them on some soft towels in 20 degree weather. I believe they will be fine for low velocity practice on the range. Is there a big difference in lubes? [image]

guys that develop their own formula will tell

Gary Reeder
[subject]
Monday, January 30, 2017, 10:41 (2663 days ago) @ MTM

you there is a big difference. I think you could use KY Jelly and it would be fine. The only difference I have seen is the color. Some lubes smoke more than others but other than that, nuttin'.

1 or 2 things to try.

Mark Conner
[subject]
Monday, January 30, 2017, 18:21 (2662 days ago) @ Gary Reeder

Your pictures are kind of hard to tell what is going on, but it really looks like the drive bands and base have rounded edges. The noses look to have pretty good fill out.

Try a alloy temperature around 700 degrees or just a bit more. Get a casting rhythm going that takes the sprue 3-4 seconds to solidify. Don't admire each cast as it falls from the mould, (time for that later) your mould is just cooling off especially in that cold weather. If your sprue hardens faster than that don't turn your pot up, cast faster, or slow down the cast if it is taking longer.

When opening the sprue plate, if it smears the lead it is still too hot, if it pulls a divot from the base it is still just a bit hot, let it cool a few more seconds. Although I've never noticed a small divot hurting anything.

The inspection you do want to do is, when you crack the sprue plate open make sure the base fill out is full and sharp. If anything else, don't waste a 4 1/2 cent gas check on it.

As time goes on you will find what works for you and your moulds. You may want to toss all this out completely.

Hey Gary instead of KY I always thought fromunda cheese would work.

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