you said it is very fragile. It rubs off very easily on a full gun. Not bad at all on the small parts. You can get a quarter tank from Brownells but you also need the salts, a burner that will get the metal up to very high temps plus lots of other small stuff. The vapors are very strong and can really mess you up. On a full gun it is very hard to get decent coverage as some parts get up to temp before the rest of it. A heavy cylinder like on the Walker can be a nightmare as it is such a big blob of steel and takes so long to bring it to the high temps you need for a Nitre Blue finish. And 5 degrees under what you need will turn it purple, 5 degrees over what you want will turn it black. So it is a headache. My recommendation would be to either sell it or save your money and have it done in a good strong blue and leave the Nitre Blue small parts the color they are.
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Any recommendations for "nitre blue" touch-up?
- Greg M., 2020-09-09, 15:09
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that is where the term "bluing" came from but as
- Gary Reeder, 2020-09-09, 15:41
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Thank you for the responses, gents
- Greg M., 2020-09-09, 16:54
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IT IS NOT UGLY!! IT PROBABLY
- JT, 2020-09-09, 21:25
- KIRST CONVERTERS WORK FINE. (nm) - JT, 2020-09-09, 21:26
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IT IS NOT UGLY!! IT PROBABLY
- JT, 2020-09-09, 21:25
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That’s a pro set up. I have been intrigued about
- WB, 2020-09-09, 16:01
- it needs to be immersed in a tank at around 500 degrees - Gary Reeder, 2020-09-09, 16:39
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Thank you for the responses, gents
- Greg M., 2020-09-09, 16:54
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that is where the term "bluing" came from but as
- Gary Reeder, 2020-09-09, 15:41