AmBraCol
It comes down to whether...
Saturday, July 31, 2021, 06:57

you are wanting "full bore" charges, or are using reduced loads. A wad helps take up space under the ball if you're not using a full charge.

If you're using a full charge then you don't really have space under the ball for a wad. In which case the lube on top helps reduce fouling.

I was given a Traditions version of the 1860 Colt (made by Pietta) earlier this year, hadn't shot black powder revolver in years and never a copy of the originals, just my Ruger Old Army. Didn't have time to do any experimenting so went with a full charge of powder, a .454 round ball and some old Crisco that'd been in my BP kit for a decade or more. The thing about lubing on top of the ball instead of only lubing via a wad is that the blast of the shots moves that lube around (assuming pure Crisco) and keeps the fouling soft and the cylinder turning. I tried one cylinder full "battle field expedient" (no lube at all) and that nice, tight Pietta gave me fits in function. Had to knock it apart, lightly lube the cylinder pin, reassemble and the next load was lubed again - no more issues.

I've never tried the wads, they're on my list of "need to get a hold of" for future experimentation. I also need a smaller spout for my powder measure in order to try lighter loads.

But there's just something about a BP revolver. I had as much fun having Bobby Tyler's kids shoot it as I did shooting it myself. They'd never had the chance to try one before and thoroughly enjoyed it as well.

Another on the list of "gotta try" is using a stiffer lube than the Crisco. Some folks think that the lube is to prevent chain fires, but if you're getting a ring of lead when seating the balls, your chamber is sealed from the front. An ill fitting cap on the cone is more susceptible to flash over from an adjacent chamber. Watch a slow motion video of one of these sixguns being fired, you'd be amazed at where all the fire flows to and from.